“Wherever you go becomes a part of you, somehow.”
~ Anita Desai
The first nine days of September were spent chasing dust bunnies hiding in dark corners, cleaning out the fridge/freezer, and opening up drawer space for my quinta sitter. In preparation for Michael’s visit in October, I had to also place orders so that deliveries could be done once I returned from my trip to Uzbekistan, which I started planning in January, but dreamed about visiting for much longer.
Now, back on the quinta, I find myself in that liminal space between travelling and reintegrating myself into my normal routines and life. I am grateful that the cats are happy to have me back. That the birdsong sounds extra cheerful. That autumn weather has set in with the first tentative rain. That the silence is soothing to my senses which were often overwhelmed during my three weeks of constant movement.
It was one of the most amazing journeys I’ve ever been on. Not just because of the incredible architecture, landscapes, and deeply layered history, but also the many wonderful encounters with both locals and fellow travellers. The countless interactions and impressions will take a while to absorb into my soul, but that is part of the process of visiting far flung places and cultures that I love almost as much as the actual journey itself.
It is a country in which tourists are still being treated as honoured guests, and I pray that the big groups and rude individuals won’t ruin it too soon. In Khiva, when arriving 10 minutes early at one site, I was beckoned in with a smile to where the workers were finishing their breakfast. My ticket was checked, and a chunk of bread pressed into my hand. The young Uzbek guide, who confessed that hugging in his culture is only reserved for family members, didn’t hesitate to give me another big hug when I bumped into him a day after our tour.
In Samarkand, when the young barista found out that I was from South Africa, not only were Yvonne Chaka Chaka’s Umbogoti soon drifting out into the early morning light, but he insisted I share their breakfast, and was thus introduced to bogirsak (a deep-fried bread reminding me of South African vetkoek), eating it ‘Russian style’ with him and a friend.
I was accosted by wrinkled old ladies with golden smiles, as well as young university students for selfies and photos, and my asalaam aleikum was always returned with a smile or a hand on the heart on my early morning walks through sleepy neighbourhoods, where old men gathered in clumps after their early morning prayers, women briskly walked home with fresh produce bought at the market, or cats accosted me to play or curl up on my lap.
As always for me, it will be the people who will stay in my heart and memory much longer than the thrill of exquisite buildings and landscapes.
If you are curious as to what I saw, here is whittled down compilation of the 4000 photos I took in slide show form. (As I no longer blog about my travels this is the only glimpse you will get.)
One of life’s little surprises was the amazing Light Show at Registan Square in Samarkand. They have various options they rotate, and the one evening I decided to venture out to see what it was like, charmed me enough to motivate me to buy a ticket for my last night in Samarkand to go inside the square, instead of viewing it from the outside. Wandering around the buildings all lit up was completely different from visiting during the day, and when it was time for the light show, I decided to film a bit of it, but boy oh boy was I in for a surprise. If you have roughly 20 minutes, and can stomach the fact that my camera was hand held and I was looking at the show instead of staring at the little screen of my camera (which is why it doesn’t stay level all the time), click on the link below to experience something, I thought was amazing. (The first two minutes are the worst, but the quality is surpringly good overall, which is why I am sharing it.)
Registan Square Samarkand Light Show
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This reads like one of those magical adventures where, as you put it so well: “… it will be the people who will stay in my heart and memory much longer than the thrill of exquisite buildings and landscapes.” Such travel sounds perfect for you—a quick escape from quinta life and a chance to dive into something so different. While it seems strange to say this: congratulations. A couple of people I know who’ve visited Uzbekistan said the kindness of the people makes you feel alive, as if you belong there (and they also commented on the bread in Khiva). While I’m sure the scenery and architecture were beautiful (incredibly diverse, beautiful photographs!!!), I liked most that you say the people stay in your mind the longest.
Thanks, Randall. Uzbekistan really still is a place where one can have amazing interactions with the locals. I cannot recommend travelling here enough, especially as it still has a positive impact on the lives of many people.
I’m so glad you made it to Uzbekistan. It is one of my favourite countries for the same reasons you’ve noted. We have visited twice and both times travelled only by road. Nice to see so many familiar sights.
I’m glad you could see some familiar sights again, Peggy. I had high expectations, and I’m so happy that it exceeded them. I will remember this trip for a very long time.
You’re the second blogger I’ve encountered who has visited Uzbekistan! It does sound like a magical place. I had read about Samarkand and its place on the Silk Road; it was also razed by Genghis Khan and almost all of its male adult residents killed in retaliation for refusing to surrender. (It’s why I wasn’t entranced when Genghis Khan’s reputation had undergone a PR overhaul in 21st century.) I’m glad you had a wonderful time there, but I can imagine the cats missed you and were happy to have their human home!
It is an amazing country to visit, Hangaku. Yes, it has seen it’s fair share of devestation and cruelty under a variety of leaders. I’m just finishing a book on Amir Timur, who has been raised to national hero status in the country since its independence 35 years ago, but the amount of cruelty he unleashed onto the wider landscape is really hard to stomach. At least he didn’t just destroy, but also built amazing buildings especially in Samarkand which was his capital, and where artisans from all over the empire were sent, when their lives were spared, to create and build in his service.
It is always wonderful to return home after a trip, and I must say that their human is just as happy to be back in their company.
I can absolutely feel your excitement through your words, Jolandi. I’m so happy to know that you had a wonderful time in Uzbekistan. I certainly share the same sentiment about a slight worry that as the country’s tourism industry grows, more and more people who don’t necessarily respect the local culture might somehow find themselves at the same place with those who do. Your encounters with the people in this country really bring warmth to my heart. And the weather was certainly on your side, especially in Tashkent, the only place when the sky was constantly gloomy during my visit. Your photos are beautiful!
Thank you, Bama. I’m so grateful for all the tips and advice you gave me. I don’t regret a single decision I made on this trip, which is rare. It was such a good thing that I spent 5 nights in Bukhara, for example, as it was really hot while I was there (35-37C), so every afternoon during the worst heat, I could head back to the hotel to relax a bit. I was treated like a minor celebrity there because I stayed for so long. They said that on average people spend two nights only. I definitely prefer a slower pace in general, and time to just sit on benches, as it always lead to some sort of interaction and conversation, which I adore.
What an amazing trip. Possibly somewhere I will never get the chance to visit so it was a privilege to see it through your eyes and photos.
Now!To settle back into quinta life and the upcoming winter.
BTW, I looked up a video on the Chaka Chaka song.
It was a wonderful trip, Gwen. It’s a great song, isn’t it? It was one of the sweetest gestures ever. And yes, I must admit it is quite nice to settle back into quinta life, and after a long hot summer, I am looking forward to rain and cooler weather. Maybe not quite the cold of winter, but then again, each season brings its own magic.
Jolandi, your photos are stunning!!!! You’ve captured the soul and atmosphere so vividly that I felt I was there. I love the play of light on some of the photos and the unique angles you chose for the facades that look like they’ve been preserved so well. Thank you for sharing your journey, the light show is magical too. I hope to experience it one day.
Thank you, Sarah. I think you will agree that Uzbekistan is a photographer’s dream. The light show was such a delightful surprise. So much of what we experience during our travels depend on a variety of small choices we make, and I am so glad I made that specific choice on that specific night.
I’m so happy you had a wonderful, relaxed time in Uzbekistan! The photos are beautiful and I think it’s wonderful how much you were able to interact with the friendly local people.
Thanks, Lexie. I loved the many interactions I had.
Oh my heart, what a journey, just going through the photos. The sunset shot through a tangle of wires, and all the tiles of aqua and cobalt and wheat-gold, the domes and inverse arches in the architecture I recognize from Turkish architecture. At first the landscapes I saw were flat, and then they were mountainous. The pottery shards! Extraordinary. The people in the field, were they picking cotton? I watched the entire video of the light show. Wow. I have nothing more coherent to say about all of this except: yes.
I’m glad you enjoyed the photos and video of the light show, Crystal. Yes, they were busy picking cotton – and were really lovely, while being busy with what is not an easy day of work. Cotton’s story in the country is one fraught with forced labour and the Aral Sea environmental disaster, so to stop, even for just a brief moment brought to mind all the uncomfortable things I’ve read about it. It is a fascinating country with levels of history you would be able to appreciate too.