Wild asparagus are sometimes described as sentinels of spring, as they start popping up in mild weather when it is gloriously wet after the winter rains, and appears to be towards the end of February in Central Portugal on our quinta. They tend to grow near oak and olive trees, as well as vines, and love to nestle close to rock walls.
They are thinner than their cultivated cousins and vary from dark green to purple, and are delicious eaten raw or briefly blanched to retain some crunch.
At least three different species of wild asparagus can be found in Portugal. Asparagus albus (has white flowers flowering between July and October, and has red berries), Asparagus aphyllus (small, greenish flowers flower between June and October and bearing black berries) and Aspargus acutifolius (has whitish or grayish stems with green or yellow flowers flowering around August and September, and bearing small green (black) berries that will be fully ripe in winter).
Asparagus acutifolius, which is the species I suspect grows on our quinta, reaches on average 30–70 centimetres (12–28 in) in height, but can grow much taller if it has something to support it. Acutifolius, means “thorny leaves”, and although they are soft when the plants are young, they can be very prickly when mature. The species is dioecious, which means individual flowers are either male or female, but only one sex is to be found on any one plant so both male and female plants must grow in an area to produce seeds. The plants are therefore not self-fertile.
It is distributed across the Mediterranean Basin, where summers are hot and dry, and winters cool and moist.
| This prickly plant is rich in flavonoids and vitamin C, and is used in traditional medicine to treat kidney disorders. It is said to contain a high amount of anthocyanins, an antioxidant that is responsible for the purple colour of the young spears. |
My research shows that one can propagate wild asparagus. They require sandy or loamy soils which are well-drained. They can grow in semi-shade (light woodland) or no shade, and can tolerate maritime exposure. In order to propagate, you need to pre-soak the seeds for 12 hours in warm water, either in early autumn as soon as the seeds are ripe, or in spring. They should germinate in 3 – 6 weeks at 25°C. Prick out the seedlings into individual pots when they are large enough to handle and grow them in a sunny position in a greenhouse for their first winter, as they are frost sensitive. Plant them out into their permanent positions in late spring or early summer.
Notes:
# Asparagus used to be classified as part of the lily family (liliceae) together with garlic, onions, and plants such as aloe vera, butcher´s broom, and tulips, but since 2003 has been reclassified under the asparagaceae family, which includes roughly 2900 individual species.
# If you love history, read about the history of asparagus here: https://www.asparagus-lover.com/history-of-asparagus.html
# The different varieties of asparagus that can be found in Portugal: https://jb.utad.pt/genero/Asparagus
# De re Coquinaria, or The Art of Cooking, is the oldest known cookbook in existence. Attributed to Marcus Gavius Apicius (AD 14-37), it includes a recipe for asparagus, and shines a light on what the Roman table consisted of: https://www.amazon.com/Cookery-Dining-Imperial-Rome-Apicius/dp/0486235637
