Hawthorn Trees

The Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) is part of the Rosaceae or rose family, and can grow as a thorny bush or a tree. Here on the quinta, where we have an abundance of them, I started pruning them into trees to make it easier for me to harvest both the blossoms and berries for tinctures, liqueur, shrub, and my absolute favourite, hawthorn ketchup.

In March as they burst into flower, the air is filled with a pungent scent that is far from sweet smelling, but rather reminds one of the slightly funky smell of an aged cheese.

Research seems to suggest that the flowers contain more cardiac-influencing properties than the berries, and has been traditionally used to improve all sorts of heart ailments, as well as normalising blood pressure.

The berries or haws, which start to ripen in October on the quinta, have been used in traditional medicine not just for heart ailments, but also diarrhoea. In China, where the berries are called shan zha, it is used for indigestion, flatulence, and abdominal bloating to counteract ‘food stagnation’, but is also used for diarrhoea, and to ‘move’ blood, especially after childbirth, as well as for period pain.

It thus appears that in traditional medicine it is a great tonic for the heart, as well as digestion. In the West it is mainly Crataegus oxycantha and Crataegus monogyna that is used, and Crataegus pinnatifida in China.

Robin Harford, a UK forager, advises freezing the berries before using them to mimic a first frost, which is what old books recommend as the time to harvest the berries, as it helps to break down the cell walls to allow for more juice and flavour to be extracted.

Hawthorn seeds, which are quite big compared to the ratio with the flesh of the haws, are poisonous and should not be eaten. They contain amygdalin, which, when eaten, can cause it to release cyanide. The kernels of apricots, apples, peaches, cherries, plums, and bitter almonds interestingly enough also contain amygdalin.

High in Vitamin C and antioxidants, it also contains vitamin B

As with all wild foods, it is advisable to eat a small amount first to check how your body responds to it, but it is considered quite a safe wild food to consume. When using for specific medical conditions or when using conventional medication, it is always better to check in with one’s doctor, and to avoid when pregnant or breastfeeding, simply because scientific research is often lacking. It is a wonderful addition to one’s diet, though – not to mention an easy wild food to identify and forage. The thorns may put some people off, but it is a wonderful opportunity to practice being present in the moment, meditate, or just spend time outside.

A curious flush of flowers sometimes appear in autumn on some of the trees, which could simply be an anomaly or have something to do with changing weather patterns, but for now is a mystery to me.

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