“The fact of things passing was not a cause for grief so much as a summons to attention. All the light or beauty we could find, we had to find right now. The fact that nothing lasts is the reason why everything matters.”
– Pico Iyer
September marked the arrival of autumn on the quinta, and brought both a shock and a delight to my senses. With sometimes wild fluctuations in temperature, a single day could hold both summer and winter within its 24-hour embrace. I love autumn, and it is my favourite month here on the quinta, perhaps because of the changeability of the weather.
Our first rain fell on the 28th, which is a late start for our rainy season, and the thirsty soil swallowed the 20 mm almost as quickly as it fell. The fact that it was a Sunday felt like permission to linger longer in bed, which I welcomed, as it was a busy month, and I found myself longing for rest and solitude.
My sister came for a visit, which was a blessing, as I had to go to Coimbra for some small medical procedures, and I needed a driver after a colonoscopy from the hospital to the hotel where we stayed. As always, I made sure that a chance to explore wasn’t missed, which meant that we made good use of the time in between appointments visiting various places, including Montemor-o-Velho, Figueira da Foz, and Ança.
Michael also came for a week-long visit, and although there were no big urgent projects on the agenda, the couple of days available were filled with activity, which was made a tad challenging (at least to me) in daytime temperatures that hovered in the high 30s.
A Special Memory or Moment of Joy:
I love to discover completely off-the-beaten-track places, and on our Coimbra trip, my sister and I stopped at Palácio de São Marcos, not far from where we stayed in São Silvestre. The gates were open, and the lady we encountered invited us to explore the grounds at our leisure, despite the fact that it isn’t actually open for visits. We did just that, and spent a magical hour enjoying the peace and quiet of the gorgeous, but slightly neglected grounds.
Notes:
# Over the years I’ve both read and listened to personal stories of less than perfect experiences and encounters with the Portuguese public health system. It made both Michael and I think that perhaps we made a mistake in choosing Portugal to live in, because as we are aging, we may have to rely on good medical care more and more. As part of my residence visa conditions, I had to take out private medical insurance, and although we’ve paid into it for years now, I finally plucked up enough courage to go for a proper check-up. I stumbled upon a company that can be described as a medical concierge service to guide me through the process, and help me to find English speaking doctors and make appointments. It was exactly what I needed, and I am so glad that I finally took this step. Although I would describe myself as healthy, it is good to go for regular check-ups for preventative care. My experience calmed my mind in growing old in Portugal, as my experience with the various doctors and other medical personnel that I came in contact with can only be described as excellent. Good and sympathetic medical care come at a price, and my recent experiences have reinforced my belief that various insurances are essential to soften the hard edges and capriciousness of life.
# We’ve decided to remove the wall around the well near the orchard, cap it (in other words close it at the top), and incorporate it into a greenhouse we are planning to build. Through Tim we found someone who managed to remove the blocks without breaking them on the morning we had to head back to Madrid for Michael’s flight, and who helped Michael to move the metal bar onto which the pump is tied. Tim came last week to clean it, and all the material needed for the work has been delivered. To our shock the well has not refilled up to the level it has been at before it was cleaned.
# The dry-stone wall is taking shape nicely, and while Michael was here he built formwork for a manhole, and with the help of Lawrence they managed to throw that.
# While Michael was here, and both Sil and Lawrence were working, a branch from one of the oak trees behind the house broke off and fell partly on the little greenhouse where we have a fair amount of wood stored. The ripping sound made all of us run closer to have a look, as it happened on a day without even a wiff on wind. I thought it was part of the big dead oak tree in the corner breaking off, but it actually came from one of the oaks that is still alive. Cork oaks are referred to as widow makers, and this was another reminder that despite their incredible beauty, it is best to not build anything under them. I’ve been wanting to move the wood into the workshop and dismantle the greenhouse that was only ever supposed to be temporary for some time now, so that gave me the perfect reason to prioritize it, before winter comes.
Curiosities or Unknown Facts about Portugal:
I doubt many people know who Aristides de Sousa Mendes was, or perhaps even that Portugal was neutral during the Second World War. A museum dedicated to the man who was responsible for saving thousands of people, including Jews, by issuing them transit visas to escape persecution in Nazi occupied France, has been created in his former house in Cabanas de Viriato in July 2024. As the consul in Bordeaux, France, he defied Salazar’s orders not to issue travel documents to ‘undesirables’, and as a result of his actions he was stripped of his position, forced to retire, and as he couldn’t find other employment afterwards, died in poverty in 1954. Restoration has taken place in July 2020 (with the official ceremony in October 2021) when the Portuguese government has bestowed upon him the honour of interring his remains in the Pantheon in Lisbon, where he now rests in the company of other important historical figures.
The museum is testament to what can happen when one man decides to follow his moral compass despite putting himself and his family in grave danger. It is one of the best curated museums I’ve ever visited, as it is especially poignant in today’s political climate that is tipping towards right-wing politics in Portugal.
Written by: Jolandi
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Great to know you found the medical services to be good. What a relief. Disturbing to hear Portuguese politics are leaning right.
The right leaning politics is definitely a bit of a concern, Peggy, especially as they have been gaining quite a bit of voter support over the last couple of months. It will be interesting to see what happens with the local municipal elections taking place on the 12th. – Jolandi
Fingers crosses that people come to their senses.
One can’t count on that, we have seen … ! 🙁
Firstly, I must apologise for having made no comments at all since May. I have been keeping up with reading your fascinating posts but somehow I have got no further than just reading.
You have definitely made some progress despite the heat and lack of rain this summer. With regard to the cork-oak-branch-dropping incident; nature often forces us into action when we have either been prevaricating or have been unaware of a problem. I am glad no-one was injured and not too much damage was caused. We have a neighbour who would like us to completely cut down a mature ash tree that is right on the border of our properties. It has been stressed by the lack of rain this summer and has dropped a few branches but I think it is still okay and doesn’t deserve to be cut down just yet.
I am sorry the far right parties appear to be gaining the upper-hand in many countries at present. Our Labour Party (the Left) is in control at the moment but is not doing at all well and doesn’t appear to have any sensible plans to improve our economy. Our far right parties are causing trouble here too.
I am so pleased you have been able to have a health check-up recently. It does give us peace of mind if we know we can go to a doctor and be listened to. Enjoy your autumn on the quinta!
It often happens to me that I read posts without commenting, Clare, so I completely understand. I think being actively engaged in life is far more satisfying than being sucked in by a screen. Good luck with your neighbour and ash tree. It is not easy to know when the time is perfect for dealing with a potential problem, and cutting down mature trees can feel like amputating a limb.
It is sad that the far right is also causing trouble in Britain, but it seems to be in line with a particular zeit geist that I find very unsettling. So far October has been gorgeous. Wishing you a gorgeous autumn too, although I’ve read that the first storm with a name for the season is about to hit England. Good luck! – Jolandi
The moment I read Michael was coming, followed by your optimism of no major projects on the agenda, I fell about laughing. As if! By now, you must know the two go hand-in-hand, and nature set about proving that (all very tongue-in-cheek comments, I hope you realise).
I’m sure I have a vague recollection of the well having to be restored to its original function, and also the original construction of the green house and transporting the wood there for protection from the damp. If I’m right, there must be moments when you feel you have come around to the starting point. Why on earth would the well not refill to previous capacity? Maybe leaking through into the soil through some breech in the wall?
My (half) sister is currently on a ten-week trip in Italy, attending major family functions and walking in our father’s footsteps. I was invited but spent all my money on the US trip (which came about because of that rash promise to a girlfriend). I am so wishing I was with my sister, sharing in her awe of being able to immerse herself in this trip – even though it will add years to her house mortgage. I imagine you treasured the time with your sister just as much as I would have with mine.
We have universal healthcare in Australia, but for those of us who can afford it, we are encouraged to also take out private insurance. It takes pressure off the public system and enables us to “choose” our doctor and timing. I have just had cataract surgery, for example, and am delighting that I am typing this without wearing glasses. But I could have gone on several years before it became imperative. On the other hand, my cousin, who does not carry that insurance, has also had exemplary healthcare due to needing quadruple heart bypass surgery. She was nearly a month in hospital, for one reason or another, and did not pay a cent. I’m proud we have such a system, that prioritises wants from needs. I tell my husband that as long as we visit “Uncle Dan” every week, we can maintain our private health insurance. “Uncle Dan” being Dan Murphy’s – a leading alcohol retailer. I’d give up the alcohol in preference to the health system insurance any day, LOL.
Dearie me … what a ramble. Maybe I’ve had one too many wines? Or the dizzy impact of having some writing time on my hands?
Your first sentence in return had me laugh out loud, Gwen. You are so right! By now I should definitely know better, but I must admit that at least the projects he engaged in had no sense of urgency, which meant that it felt more relaxed, even when he ran out of time in the end. The running out of time, again, is most probably a given, as Michael will always have another project waiting in the wings.
What a pity you couldn’t join your sister on her Italy trip, but these types of trips can be a big financial strain. I really hope it is worth every single cent she is spending on it. I must say that I regret many things in my life, but not one single trip I’ve ever done.
Sounds like you have the best of both worlds in Australia, which is rare to find. And what a joy it must be for you to type away on your computer without the need for glasses.
Oh, and so by the way, I adore your rambles! – Jolandi
I’m happy to you’ve had a positive experience with the medical services in Portugal and sincerely hope you are well. The burst of color in the first photo and the beautiful sunset are really captivating, and thank you for sharing the inspiring story of Aristides de Sousa Mende, always refreshing to know that generous souls existed.
I am always thrilled when I discover stories of generous souls, who would go against political systems and put their own lives in danger to be kind and compassionate, Sarah. – Jolandi
Always a pleasure to catch up on your life on the quinta, Jolandi! I have just stepped foot on Portuguese soil for the first time in decades myself, but it was much too brief – just a quick trip to help manage a 1 1/2-year-old while our daughter and son-in-law had a mini-vacation on the west coast. What a beautiful place, and we had several days of excellent weather (not my usual vacation luck – haha). I know you are farther inland, but I did think about you and your land while there! Happy to hear that – a few little things notwithstanding – things are going well for you.
I’m so glad to hear that you had a lovely time in Portugal, Lex, even if it was a short trip. It is always a blessing when the weather is good too. I’m quite curious to know where you were, if you don’t mind me asking. – Jolandi
We stayed in a very small town called Azenhas do Mar in the Colares area. We could drive to Sintra and Cascais in 30-ish minutes. We did both and enjoyed them very much for half a day each, but we mostly just stayed in our teeny town and walked everywhere along the high cliffs and into the few places in town. It was very relaxing and we loved all the views! How far are you from there? I picture you being farther east, toward Spain, but I don’t know exactly where I got that idea as I have no clue where you actually are!
We are roughly 3 and a half hours’ drive from there, and you remember correctly. If you draw a direct line towards Spain, and then go a bit north, you’ll get to us. We are literally 20 km from the Spanish border. The Serra da Estrela mountains are in our way if we head towards the west coast, so we need to either go over (slow), or north or south of it. I’ve not been to Azenhas do Mar, but it’s been on my list for its own beauty, but also because of its proximity to some of the outlying places near Sintra I want to visit. Both Sintra and Cascais are beautiful, but congested, so I’m glad to hear that you enjoyed both. There certainly is a reason for their popularity, but I think you have discovered that you don’t have to go far from the busy places to experience a different side of Portugal. Small towns and villages are at the heart of Portugal’s identity, and I’m so glad you could soak that up. It has a gorgeous coastline, and I’ve been on beaches where I was either the only one or one of only a handful of people. In today’s overpopulated world, it is quite special. – Jolandi
It was VERY special to feel we had our small town almost to ourselves, as well as our cliff walks and some beach time. It all made Portugal very memorable!
Your visit to Palácio de São Marcos sounds like the kind that makes a long-lasting impression, especially because it was technically not open to visitors. How nice that lady allowed you and your sister in and explore the site. The fallen branch of that oak tree actually reminds me of a tragedy that happened to one of my blogging friends in Vancouver more than three years ago when a tree fell onto her house in the middle of a storm at night, killing her and her husband. Now I understand why some people regularly trim the trees around them, because they can indeed pose a great danger. But anyway, it’s good to hear that the health system in Portugal has been serving you well. I didn’t give much thought to health insurance when I was a lot younger. But the older I become, the more I realize just how important it is.
I remember Caroline and her husband’s death well, Bama. It was such a shock. She sent me a link to a zucchini chocolate bread once when I had a glut of them in the garden that I still make, and although I only knew her through her blog posts and comments, I still think of her every time I make it. We have a big dead cork oak next to the one from which the branch fell, and when we heard the sound we all thought it was part of that tree that broke off. These trees are protected in Portugal and one needs permission to fell or even just trim them. I should get someone to help me apply for a licence to do that, as I’ve been told that to complete the application online will require the patience of a saint (not to mention an excellent grasp of the language and bureaucratic process!). – Jolandi
When I bought my first house in Portland, my neighbor explained that a massive tree between our houses was damaging his foundation. I checked and it was damaging ours, too. We hired a crew to come and remove it immediately. THEN we found out that Portland protects trees, and there was all kinds of paperwork and permissions we should have sought. Ooops. We got lucky though, and no one ever raised a fuss. I hope that your permits for tree work don’t take as long as your residency permits.
Thank goodness no one raised a fuss, Crystal. For that exact reason I’m not rushing towards this bit of bureaucracy! We could also just follow the Portuguese approach of waiting for the tree to fall apart limb by limb . . . – Jolandi
One reason I haven’t considered moving to another country in spite of the US’ descent into right wing extremism is because I have a chronic condition that so far has been well managed by a caring neurologist who has a lot of experience in treating people like myself. I have read that many countries now place a number of restrictions on noncitizens’ access to healthcare since it apparently is very expensive to cover everyone, especially with the shortage in medical staff that seems to have affected all nations. (And especially with so many of us aging!) Your finding a medical concierge to help you navigate the Portuguese system sounds like a great idea. I think I will suggest it to my daughter in Canada, who has been having trouble finding even a primary care physician just for well checkups.
That said, I hope you and Michael are well. I admire your self sufficiency and ability to work on your farm yourselves! I know from experience what a headache dealing with a well can be. There are disadvantages to being hooked up to a municipal water system, but I am glad I don’t have to maintain it!
That makes a lot of sense, Hangaku. Often on paper medical systems may appear to be great, which is not always reflected in the reality. And like you say, many countries are starting to struggle with having staff shortages, and as populations age, this will only become more challenging. If there is any concierge-type service in Canada, your daughter may well benefit from giving it a try. I can completely relate with the struggles of even just finding a primary physician.
It definitely helps that Michael is very practical, as living on a quinta is simply not the same as living in a town or city. Like you point out so well, one has to rely on oneself for many basic services one won’t give any thought to otherwise. Luckily we only need well water to water the garden, and since we’ve decided to close it, we shouldn’t ever have to be in this position again, but it is reinforcing just how precious a reliable water supply is. – Jolandi
I am relieved to hear that you have entered the medical care system. Just getting started is an obstacle, but now you have cleared that one. Your attitude and your constant activity are the best things you have going for you, however, and I am expecting good health from you for many years!
I noticed your comment in response to one of mine that politics were leaning right in Portugal, and I see you mention it again here. It’s concerning you, and I hope for the best there. It seems that if we look around, it’s happening everywhere. For over a decade in Turkey, and I’ve seen this occuring in Australia, and Germany and England – probably more that I’m not thinking of. It must be a global pressure we all have in common, that so many people feel that restrictions and rules and dominating leaders are the answer to our stresses. I wonder what it is that unites so many of us. I am pleased when I see countries going the other direction, such as Mexico’s election of Claudia Sheinbaum, a scientist and a woman who seems to prioritize humanity and respect of cultures.
Sara’s comment about the colourful close-up at the top was going to be my comment. That was a nice start to your introduction to September’s post. I’m glad for your rain, and worry about the well. Glad also to see the wood stacked in a place that will certainly stay dry.
How nice to know that the politics in some countries is heading in another direction, Crystal.
Here’s to inclusive politics and good health in all our futures. Like I heard someone on a podcast recently say: “Hope dies last.” – Jolandi