“. . . belonging is not a once-and-for-all condition, a static identity tattooed on our skin; it is a constant self-examination and dynamic revision of where we are, who we are, and where we want to be.”
– Elif Shafak
I don’t like roller coasters, and I don’t like cliches, yet I can find no better way to describe my first year of living permanently on our quinta in Portugal. When I arrived on the 9th of October last year, I was uncertain of how I would cope. Actually, I was, to be more precise, petrified. Yet, despite my fears, I had no choice but to get into the cart that would hurtle me through this past year much quicker than I thought possible.
What made everything just a bit more difficult was that I was never sure what to expect. I was on an unknown track – one I’m still confused by and unfamiliar with, as it twists and plunges when I least expect it to. Some things that should have been simple and easy were often fraught with effort and confusion, while the things we expected to have difficulty with, were in many instances just the opposite. Life here is filled with contradictions. Sometimes the steep incline, filling my heart with trepidation, is followed by a gentle descent. Other times, the gentle inclination give way to a sheer drop that leaves me bewildered and out of breath. But these adrenaline-fueled moments, are always followed by moments when the ride slows down, and I can take in my surroundings, and appreciate the blessings and joys of the moment.
I am getting used to this new trajectory of my life with its different daily rhythms, but unless I regularly check in with my coping mechanisms, I find my knuckles white with effort, grappling for a safety bar. Perhaps, at some point in the future, I will start to enjoy the ride a bit more, but I don’t think I can ever be one of those people who throw their arms above their heads screaming “woohoo” as the roller coaster plunges down a steep slope.
I am still waiting for my residence visa. As the lawyer recently said, when I asked about my legal status in the country: “You are in a very specific situation, as at this time, there is no regulation on your status, and that is what has delayed the process. You have a valid visa until the end of the year but if you leave the country, you may not be able to enter again. However, we have been pressuring SEF to resolve your issue and hope to have it resolved soon.” We are also still waiting for the habitation license to be issued, even though all the papers were finalized and handed in a couple of weeks ago.
In the meantime, I try not to obsess too much about those official processes I can do nothing about, but instead do my best to enjoy those moments of my life I have control over. Michael’s recent visit was, for the first time since we bought the land four years ago, filled with a little less work, and more enjoyment.
On our way to visit a company making steel structures in Aveiro (a three hour drive away) for our next big project, we managed to take a stroll through Belmonte, before having lunch, while the next day, we not only visited a winery for a tour and tasting, but also managed to drive through the clouds as we crossed the Serra de Estrela (mainland Portugal’s highest mountains), before meeting up with friends for a late lunch.
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- Belmonte
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- Belmonte
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- Belmonte
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- Belmonte
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- Santa Comba Dao
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- Canas de Senhorim
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- Canas de Senhorim
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- Canas de Senhorim
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- Canas de Senhorim
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- Caminhos Cruzados
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- Caminhos Cruzados
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- Caminhos Cruzados
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- Caminhos Cruzados
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- Caminhos Cruzados
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- Serra de Estrela
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- Serra de Estrela
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- Serra de Estrela
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- Serra de Estrela
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- Serra de Estrela
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- Serra de Estrela
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- Serra de Estrela
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- Serra de Estrela
There was also time to go mushroom hunting on the land under the guidance of Melissa, an experienced mushroom and truffle hunter.
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- In all likelihood Boletus Fragrans (not edible)
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- Identifying mushrooms is not always straight forward
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- Red Cracking Bolete (edible)
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- Field Mushrooms (edible)
While Michael was busy with his small projects, like putting in two manholes, removing the cooker hood above the stove and replacing it with cupboards, and building Ikea kitchen cupboards in the barn for better storage of tools, I was busy removing the tomato plants and redesigning and terracing the lower part of the garden. It is still a project in progress, but I work on it regularly, so should be finished soon.
Notes:
# I recently received the shocking news that one of my high school class mates were murdered in a farm attack in South Africa, which once again confirmed for me that Michael and I made the right decision to buy land in Portugal, where I feel safe living on my own.
# With all the rain we had in September and a summer with temperatures under 40C, the olives are ripening early this year. If all goes well I will help to harvest some of the 500 trees on Matthias’ land in exchange for help with our harvest of 40 trees. Fingers crossed the nearby organic mill will open on the 15th as they’ve indicated, as we all prefer our oil a bit sharper than the local preference.
# With fungi/mushroom season in full swing, earlier than usual, I’ve signed up for a course and a club, so I guess it will be an interesting and busy next couple of weeks.
Portuguese Words:
cogumelos – mushrooms
montanha russa – roller coaster
ano – year
primeiro – first
Written by: Jolandi
Congratulations, Jolandi and Michael! I am so pleased Michael’s visit was a more relaxing affair and you were able to mix work with pleasure. As always, your photos are lovely. I was sorry and shocked to read about your old school friend. Two great-aunts of my husband were both murdered in their home in South Africa about thirty years ago so I know how dangerous it can be. I am sure you are much safer in Portugal. Good luck with the fungi identification! I find it almost impossible to identify so many toadstools, especially all the brown ones!
Thank you, Clare. I’m so sorry to hear that the violence touched your husband’s family too. Yes, I am definitely better off in Portugal.
It will be interesting to see if I can actually identify anything after the course, Clare, as it was very clear when Melissa was on the land that it isn’t a simple process. There are so many different things to consider and look at. For me the whole exercise is part of getting to know our land better, so even if I can just get the family they belong to right, I will be happy. 😆 – Jolandi
Yeah! Congratulations on your primeiro ano!! Bravo to tackle the knowledge of mushrooms. Do you need a permit to pick them there? We do need it here in Tuscany (we didn’t apply for it) but not in Slovenia, where there is the limit how much you can bring from the forest in a day, namely 2 kg. Sorry for the bad news. It reminded me of the Octavia E. Butler’s book Parable of the Sower (and second part Parable for the Talents which I’m reading now). Many things I hear daily remind me of these books, written in 1993 and 1998. I often think of you on your quinta and admire you and marvel at your way of doing it. Bravi, both of you. To much joy.
Thank you for your kind and encouraging words, Manja.
To be honest, I have no idea if one needs a permit. But I must confess that I doubt I will turn into a mushroom hunter anytime soon. I really only want to learn how to identify what grows on our land and what is edible. We would like to encourage diversity on the land, and build the health of the soil. Fungi is an important part of that, so identifying edible mushrooms really comes second for me to this. Plus, I do find the fact that some mushrooms are poisenous a tad off-putting. Do you enjoy mushroom hunting? – Jolandi
I used to as a kid, and later too, back in Slovenia. My father is a self-made expert. 😀 He used to walk in the woods with a mushroom book. Mom often regretted this. The pictures were not very good. 😀 😀
Oh, what a lovely memory, Manja.
Also, a short note on photos: now I can click on any and as I do it opens is a new window and when I click on it again it becomes really big. 🙂 Thanks for that!
The options are still limited and frustrating, but at least the photos can now be made larger. I hate it when technology has limitations where it shouldn’t.
Wow, so much going on fir you guys. I must say even after reading your roller coaster story, I wish we could do what you have done, the enjoyment of feeling safe sounds priceless to me
Love your stories
The feeling of safety is definitely priceless, Filomena. And for that I can face many obstacles.
Perhaps one day when you visit Portugal again, you can come visit us too. I know your heart is in the Azores, but the mainland has its charms too. 🥰 – Jolandi
I know how upsetting it can be, waiting on bureaucracy to finalize those important permits for just living in the country of your choice. My younger daughter is going through the process in Canada, after spending thousands of dollars on an attorney and all of the fees each office charges simply for filing. (She also thinks there’s some “monkey business” involved with one of the officials, but she’s not a firebrand or an investigative journalist, so she’s just trying to be patient and trust that her lawyer knows what he’s doing.) I hope your permits are finalized before the end of the year, and you can enjoy your life in Portugal without any worries.
The photos you’re posted indicate that you made the right choice in moving to Portugal. I know it hasn’t been easy, but I envy the potential in all of those projects and plans.
I definitely know that we’ve made the right choice in deciding to move to Portugal, Hangaku. Especially when I pause to just drink in the incredible sense of peace I experience here on the land. And for that, I can face the bureaucracy with a bit more patience. I hope your daughter’s paperwork will also be sorted out soon. It is incredible how expensive it is to get lawyers involved, especially when a process like that should be simple and straightforward. We as a human race seem to be very good at complicating things. – Jolandi
Wow, it has been a year already. Time certainly flies by. Life is a rollercoaster and we never know where it may take us. Yours has certainly been an adventure. So happy to read that you and Michael enjoyed a bit more relaxation, some fun time to explore, but also to accomplish a few projects.
Keeping my fingers crossed for you that all of your papers are approved and there is no more red tape to endure. I am so sorry to hear about your classmate, that is heartbreaking news.
Enjoy your mushroom education, sounds fun. Hope Michael is back soon.
Take Care, and happy olive harvesting.
Terri
Thank you for your lovely words, Terri.
I must say that I am quite excited about the olive harvest. This year is looking like a much better one than the last.
It was wonderful to enjoy more moments of relaxation during Michael’s last visit. In many ways it felt very disjointed, as we didn’t just focus on one project, but I think I prefer it this way. It just felt too short. – Jolandi
Your days are full of such wonderful riches, even if you get thrown plenty of obstacles. Hope the visa and license come through soon.
The license was finalised yesterday, Peggy. Such a relief and joy, after so many years of confusing bits of paper that was needed for it. Now I just need my visa.
I do love my life with all its ups and downs. – Jolandi
You are on this steep learning curve Jolandi and I am sure you wish it would slow down a bit but what an adventure you are having. So different to the Emirates huh? I love the photo’s and your updates. It was great to see you and Michael having some down time too. Best wishes in your preparations for Autumn and Winter.
Oh my goodness, yes! Life here cannot be more different from the one I lived in the UAE, Christina. BUT like you point out, it is an incredible adventure, despite the steep learning curve. All in all I really love and appreciate my life here, and wouldn’t change it. It really was so wonderful that Michael and I could spend a bit more time together just relaxing. He is also learning not not everything on his list of things to do, is urgent. – Jolandi
Hello Jolandi,
First and foremost congratulations to you and Michael on this amazing milestone! It’s amazing how time flies, but what a year it has been. It’s such a pleasure to “follow” you along this journey, and view each accomplishment and progress. Your piece of heaven looks more beautiful each time. You and Michael have skills that compliment each other so perfectly, and it must make each achievement that much more worthwhile.
We are keeping fingers crossed that all official procedures will be completed smoothly and soon, and that you will soon have your residence visa and more peace of mind. We are terribly sorry to hear of your friend’s passing under such terrible circumstances – we can’t imagine what it must be like for their family and dear ones.
Wishing you both a safe and healthy autumn, and please continue to take good care.
Thank you so much for your beautiful words, Takami. We are honoured to have you on this journey with us. This online community is an immense source of encouragement and inspiration to us, especially when the going gets tough. I am happy to report that late yesterday afternoon I received an email from the architect to inform us that our habitation license had been finalised. Woohooo! One official document done! – Jolandi
This is great news! Keeping fingers crossed that you will soon receive good news on your residence visa.
Thanks, Takami. I definitely need all the good luck and wishes I can get. 😆 – Jolandi
Your metaphor for the last year of your life is apt, and I hope all of the drastic ups and downs eventually smooth out. I continue to admire your willingness to stay on the ride!
Very sorry to read about your high school friend. South Africa’s beauty (both people and places) has always been muddled in my own head with stories like this from our SA friends and even our son’s brief time living there and facing two scary experiences/crimes. It’s very sad, and I’m sorry this is part of your memories of home.
A real pity your son had to experience this for himself, Lex. South Africa has such incredible warmth, beauty, and potential, yet violence is an undercurrent that spoils it all. At least for me. I have a whole range of conflicting emotions when it comes to my country of birth. Now that I know what it feels like to be physically safe, I never want to give it up. So, no matter what obstacles we face here in Portugal, they pale in comparison. – Jolandi
A whole year of being a permanent resident! Oh my goodness you were so brave to just go do it. I recall that it was not an easy decision to make and you were pressured because of the pandemic, and now because of your unique situation you are trapped there. It’s an interesting way to learn your home though, being tied to it with no other options, like a marriage. You and your land have had no choice but to work out the rough places, and there’s a bit of romance to that. I love how you have always remembered self care, and took the time to notice beauty, and read a book, and watch your cats, and be outside when you had to recharge your batteries.
It’s good to hear you and Michael finally got to play a little bit while he was there. Belmonte looks like a place I want to visit. My fave photo is of the all-red laundry that is colour coordinated with the house. I mean, seriously, how did they manage that? Ha! That carved and painted ceiling is wonderful, and the views into the fog are magical.
It is definitely an interesting way in getting to know my new home, Crystal. I like the analogy.
I also loved how the red laundry co-ordinated with the house – such a picture-perfect display. – Jolandi
First of all, congrats on your first year! Secondly, sorry about your loss. I’ve heard about the farm murders in general and it’s horrific. Unfortunately, I fear they won’t get the news coverage they deserve. Scary times.
But you two carefully considered your options on where to live and settle down and now, you have a beautiful home that feels safe, which is so important. I hope your visa gets sorted out soon, but it sounds like you have the right attitude. We’re in a similar boat, mine’s sorted but Eric’s is not yet. I’m going to have faith that it will all work out.
Take good care, xo
Congratulations on your first year in Portugal. Your feelings came through loud and clear with your roller coaster analogy. I’m glad you and Michael had a little time to slow down and enjoy lunch, a winery and a visit with friends. I’m super excited to hear about the mushroom course you are taking. It’s mushroom season here too and my son and I have been going into the forest armed with our mushroom guidebook. I get quite paranoid about trying new (to us) mushrooms. A course would help!
I’m very sorry to hear about your classmate in South Africa.
Despite the course, I’m still very nervous and very paranoid about eating anything I identify, Caroline. I suspect it will take quite a while before I do. Happy mushroom hunting in the meantime, and even if you eat nothing, just becoming familiar with some key features is already a great start. – Jolandi
I can’t believe it’s been a year since you moved to Portugal! I still remember your posts from your early weeks in your new home. How time flies! I hope the visa issue will be sorted out soon so you have one less problem to worry about. But I love your attitude of focusing on things you have control of, instead of worrying about those out of your control.
I’m so sorry for your loss, Jolandi. It’s really sad to know that incidents like this happen quite often in South Africa. It’s a country I have been curious about and wish to visit one day.
Indeed, Bama. Sometimes it feels just the other day I arrived in Portugal, and sometimes it feels like much longer.
I hope you will be able to visit South Africa one day, despite violence tainting it’s image. You will find spectacular landscapes, wonderful weather, great food, and hospitable people. – Jolandi
Congratulations on your anniversary, Jolandi. May the road ahead be smooth and straightforward, and even if it’s not, I wish you the equanimity to deal with the bumps.
Best,
Tanja
Thank you, Tanja. What a lovely wish. – Jolandi