“Some places are for going through, others are for going to – and Monsanto is definitely one of the latter.”
– José Saramago
In his book Journey Through Portugal, José Saramago explains that he went to Monsanto expecting to find slate roofs, but instead found red Mediterranean tiles, and ‘imagined narrow, winding dark streets that would be slippery in this wet weather, but all that is winding is not dark, and what is dark manages to be picturesque.’
On a cold winter’s morning in early January, when I visited Monsanto, most of the town was still huddled in the shade, where the overspill of fountains or leaks had frozen during the night, creating treacherous patches of slippery ice. The town is not just built or even sometimes appears to be carved from stone, but the enormous boulders that lie scattered across the mountain, have been seamlessly incorporated into functional spaces.
“The traveller thought he had seen all there was to see regarding stones. That was before he came to Monsanto.”
– José Saramago
Stone crosses dot the town, alluding to a deep religious sentiment; one that in all likelihood helped it to snatch the title of the most Portuguese village in Portugal.
Igreja Matriz or Main Church, Saint Salvador, dates from the turn of the 16th Century. It had undergone alterations and restoration work during the 17th and 18th Centuries, while the rose window dates from the 1950s. 
Capela do Espirito Santo, or Chapel of the Holy Spirit, constructed in the 17th Century on the symbolic boundary of the settlement. 
Portas do Espirito Santo 
Torre de Lucano, or Lucano Tower, on the left, and the bell tower of the Igreja da Misericordia, or Church of Misericordia, on the right.
Solar dos Pinheiros, or Pinheiros Manor House that dates from the mid-18th Century is a good example of local Baroque architecture. 
Solar do Marques da Graciosa, or Marques da Graciosa Manor House, also known as the Andrades Manor House dates from the 17th/18th Centuries, and functions as the Tourist Office.
The views as one leaves town and heads higher up towards the castle. 
An interplay of light and shadow as the day lengthens.
Furdas, or traditional pigsties. 
The castle which seems to melt into the landscape was built by the Templars at the top of Mosanto Mountain.
The snowcapped peaks of the Serra de Estrella, Portugal’s highest mountain range in the distance.
Portuguese Words:
torre – tower
igreja – church
capela – chapel
rua – street
casa – house
castelo – castle
pedras – stones
Written by: Jolandi
Notes:
There is so much more to Monsanto than what I can capture in one or two blog posts – adufe, marafona dolls, yearly festivals, good food, and interesting people, so over time I will keep returning to this fascinating village and share the stories I discover.
My jaw dropped when I looked at your feature photo. I have seen lots of wonderful rock landscapes in nature but never one that has been so incorporated into a town. It almost looks like something out of a fantasy movie. I’m reminded of The Flintstones cartoon I used to watch as a kid and the fictitious town of Bedrock. Of course Monsanto is far more charming and I adore the beautiful churches and lovely doors.
There is a local saying that goes something like this “one doesn’t know if the house was born from the rock or the rock from the house”.
Like you say, Caroline, it does look a bit like the set of a fantasy movie or even where the Flintstones could have been living, which makes Monsanto a very unique looking town.
– Jolandi
Beautiful photos and beautifully presented.
I’m itching to get back to Portugal (now being holed up in the UK thanks to the dreaded virus).
My 25 year old car in the Algarve must be missing me and hope it will get us back to Spain when the border is re-opened!
Thank you, Trevor. I’m sure your car is itching for you to get back. It is so frustrating to be stuck in one place, when one’s life has been set up differently. These are challenging times, both physically and mentally. Stay safe and sane. I hope you will be able to return soon. – Jolandi
Like Caroline, I gaped at my screen when I saw the giant stones and buildings co-existing. I zoomed in more than once to see just how something could have been built where it was! I love the local saying about the interconnectedness of rock and human-built refuge. I’d love to see this in person!
Well I guess one day, when the world return to some sort of normal, you will have to plan a trip to come see it for yourself, Lexie. The pictures don’t do it justice. Central Portugal is beautiful. In the meantime, I hope I can at least allow you to travel virtually for brief moments of respite. – Jolandi
Hi Jolandi,
Loving this little rock village. I love rocks but I would imagine it gets super slick during the rainy season? FYI: I couldn’t get the last half of the photos to load. I wonder how you save the files? There should be a save for web option that can help photos to load faster, if you use Photoshop or Gimp before uploading your photos here… You might also try reducing the size of the pictures, too, and sorry if you already know this! xo
Thanks for letting me know, Lani. I use Gimp, but wasn’t aware of the ‘save to web’ option. Will definitely have a look for that option. I then use a photo resizing app to do bulk resizes, so the problem shouldn’t be that. Mmmmm. A pity that you could see all the photos. – Jolandi
They loaded this time. Stunning!
Good to hear that, Lani.
Hello Jolandi,
I am intrigued by this seamless integration of nature and human-made architecture. What a treat it is, to experience this virtual tour 🙂 I hope you and yours are continuing to stay safe and well.
I’m so glad you enjoyed this virtual tour, Takami. I loved sharing it.
Hope you are doing well too. – Jolandi
Simply beautiful! I so love how you capture the feel of the village. It looks so peaceful and I think my favorite photo is the one near the top with the turquoise door in the side of a rock with steps skirting the doorstep. It reminds me of a fairy village. I was so drawn in and wondering what is behind the door? What a lovely post and village. I can only imagine the stories you will learn with future visits. Hope you are well.
It does feel a bit like something from a fairy tale, Terri. I’m looking forward to all the wonderful things I will discover and learn.
All good on my side. Hope you are well too. – Jolandi
I was amazed at the houses carved out of rock, but maybe more because I wondered if people still lived in them and how comfortable it really was. I grouse about my apartment, which is built on a concrete slab, meaning the floor can be freezing in the winter. I can only imagine what it must be like to live in a house built entirely of solid stone.
I love the photos of the details from the buildings. They remind me of what I miss in walking around old cities and historic places.
Like you, I suspect these stone houses must be very cold in winter, even with woodburning stoves or modern heating, as the floors would be freezing, HG. That was why we decided on underfloor heating in our stone ruin, as both Michael and I are cold when our feet are cold. (Even in Abu Dhabi we complained about the cold concrete floors in winter!)
Although there are various houses that are empty or even falling into ruin, it is still very much a lived in village, although I’m not sure how many people still permanently live there.
I’m so glad you enjoyed the photos of the details, as I love zooming in on interesting features of buildings. I usually have an entire folder of this kind of thing, as it is often what makes a place interesting to me, instead of the bigger picture.
– Jolandi
Thank you for introducing me to Monsanto. The town looks fascinating and I hope you will be able to keep exploring it.
It is a wonderful place, Tanja. – Jolandi